How to decide which size to knit

The tailored garments in the ESYSKnits Collection are designed to accommodate different body types first, then size within that body shape.  These patterns come in three shapes - SLENDER(A), STANDARD (B) and FULL (C).  See the side panel on this page to understand the design aspects incorporated into each body shape.  The icon accompanying each description will appear on the pattern to help identify the shape for which the pattern is written.  The letter designation on the pattern number further identifies the shape.

Determine which body shape you are going to knit, then select the pattern number and letter that corresponds to your choice.   Each shape has a generous range of sizes from which to choose (see measurement chart, below) and many contain optional shaping to address common fitting challenges.

In addition, the wearing ease designed into the garment is also notated on the pattern front.

Why so many sizing options? Please, read on.

Good fit is fashion Trompe l'oeil, tricking the eye into believing that our bodies are symmetrical and well proportioned.  To look good you do not need a perfect body - just clothing that creates the illusion of symmetry and proportion.  It is necessary to understand that a garment that looks good on a hanger, may not flatter the three dimensional aspects of the human body.

While knitted fabric is more forgiving than woven fabric, we can take our cue from the tailor to begin making garments that are more flattering.  A well made garment will hang from the shoulders and flow out and over the contours of our bodies. The hem and shoulder lines will be level, and the side seams will hang straight on the wearer.  This means the measurements of the upper body - the neck, shoulder, upper arm, upper chest and back are critical as the first rule of well fitted garments.

Circumferences are the second  measurement, but a third critical determination is body shape.   We are all familiar with  the terms hourglass, straight, triangle and inverted triangle. These “ready to wear” terms are an additional attempt to address the more elusive  factors of the body shape. However, they only address body shape as viewed  from the front or back.  In real life differences in body shape are also observed from the side. Where the fullness occurs -  front, back, upper abdomen, lower abdomen,  lower side hips, high hip, lower buttocks, etc., will determine if a garment hangs straight or pulls or sags over the body. For instance, is there roundness of the back?  This would indicate that more length is required in the back for the hem to hang straight on the body.  Is there a narrow chest with a full bust?  Accommodating this figure trait would require  length (fullness) over the bust area, usually in the form of short row shaping.*  Is there a very full tummy? The garment would have to reach out over the tummy and, without enough length (fullness) would result in pulling up in front.  What about full lower outer hips with a small waist? a full bicep? 

Borrowing, again,  from the sewing pattern industry, ESYSKnits pattern slopers are further divided into three body types from which to choose.  By selecting both a chest measurement and a body type, the knitter is able to better ensure that the neckline, arm scythe and sleeve cap are shaped properly to support the garment.  With a few  quick body measurements and strategic alterations as noted in the pattern instructions, fullness can be added at the appropriate location to achieve fit without sagging or pulling while maintaining the intended design character of the garment.  In addition, design elements such as pockets or buttons, are placed more suitably for the body type.